The conventional way of finishing off masonry walls, along with a technique still favoured by many plasterers, wet plastering includes applying either a cement-based render or a gypsum backing which is certainly trowelled right into the bricks or blocks.To begin with, a scratch coat is applied, generally known as a ‘key’ coat. This forms the base coat which is lightly scratched whilst the plaster remains wet in order to create a good key to the following layer of plaster - the ‘skim’ coat - to bond to.
Together with cement-based and gypsum plasters, lime and clay plasters are liked by a great deal of traditionalists and people wanting a wall that may breathe. Lime and clay plasters are higher priced than ‘conventional’ wall finishes and it also is advisable to utilize simply a plasterer with familiarity with such materials.
The one thing to consider though: should you be intending on utilizing the approach of wet plaster with an external wall, do be aware that you won't have the ability to add insulation as you can with plasterboard - except if you are content to use external insulation on your own property. So, for those who have got solid brick walls - contrary to cavity walls - you should think about the outcome that the paucity of insulation might have.
Has an even, hardwearing finish
Suits traditional properties perfectly
Straightforward to apply around difficult areas for instance windows and doors
Offers superb airtightness and soundproofing
Cannot add insulation internally behind this type of plaster
Takes longer to dry up as compared to alternative techniques
Hairline cracking may take place
High level of skill is vital - a professional plaster can be hard to find and can frequently charge more for this particular specific type of work.
Plasterboard with Skim Coat
The two main standard board thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5mm for 400mm spacings and 12.5mm for 600mm. Additionally, there are plenty of different ways wherein plasterboard could possibly be fixed into a wall: ‘dot and dab’ or ‘board on dabs’, and plasterboard that is certainly screwed to timber battens fixed into the wall.
Using dot and dab, sheets of plasterboard are stuck either to brickwork or blockwork walls utilizing dabs of adhesive and allowing only a modest cavity between plasterboard plus the wall. Together with the batten method - ideal for all those wanting to add insulation to some solid wall - timber battens, typically measuring 38mm wide and with a depth to compliment the thickness of insulation you happen to be employing between them, are screwed towards the wall.
Rigid board PIR (polyisocyanurate) insulation is then inserted involving the battens until the plasterboard is placed on the top. A vapour control layer is likewise necessary in the case of solid walls.
Last of all, the joints between boards are covered with scrim tape - usually in the guise of your self-adhesive tape - prior to a skim layer of plaster is trowelled on the plasterboard.
Hairline cracks - which can be related to wet plaster - are improbable
Faster drying out time
Possible to handle with a DIY basis
Insulation could be fitted behind plasterboard
The cavity made might take up room space
Can be difficult to solve shelving, radiators and photos
Provides little when it comes to airtightness
Scrim fails to always mask space between sheets of plasterboard that could be evident via the skim coat.