The regular way of completing masonry walls, and one still favoured by many plasterers, wet plastering calls for employing either a cement-based render or possibly a gypsum backing that is trowelled directly onto the bricks or blocks.Initially, a scratch coat is defined on, alternatively known as the ‘key’ coat. This is the base coat that may be gently scratched whilst the plaster remains to be wet to create a great key for that second layer of plaster - the ‘skim’ coat - to bond to.
Besides cement-based and gypsum plasters, lime and clay plasters are favoured by most traditionalists and other people wanting a wall that can breathe. Lime and clay plasters are higher priced than ‘conventional’ wall surface finishes and it's also a great idea to just use a plasterer with understanding of such materials.
Something to understand though: if you are planning on making use of the technique of wet plaster upon an exterior wall, do remember that you won't have the ability to add insulation as you're able to with plasterboard - except in cases where you might be content to make use of external insulation on your home. So, in case you have got solid brick walls - rather than cavity walls - consider the effect that not enough insulation could possibly have.
Provides an even, hardwearing finish
Suits traditional properties perfectly
Uncomplicated to make use of around tricky areas as an example doors and windows
Offers outstanding airtightness and soundproofing
Cannot add insulation internally behind this sort of plaster
Takes more hours to dry when compared with many other techniques
Hairline cracking may seem
High level of skill is crucial - a skilled plaster is commonly hard to encounter and may frequently require more to do this particular type of work.
Plasterboard with Skim Coat
You will find few regular board thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5mm for 400mm spacings and 12.5mm for 600mm. Additionally, there are various different methods wherein plasterboard can be fixed to your wall: ‘dot and dab’ or ‘board on dabs’, and plasterboard that is screwed to timber battens fixed into the wall.
With dot and dab, sheets of plasterboard are stuck to either brickwork or blockwork walls using dabs of adhesive and leaving only a small cavity between plasterboard along with the wall. While using the batten method - perfect for anyone desiring to add insulation to a solid wall - timber battens, generally measuring 38mm wide and with a depth to support the thickness of insulation you are choosing between the two, are screwed on the wall.
Rigid board PIR (polyisocyanurate) insulation is inserted between your battens before the plasterboard is defined above the top. A vapour control layer is additionally needed in the matter of solid walls.
Finally, the joints between your boards are covered with scrim tape - typically by means of a self-adhesive tape - before a skim layer of plaster is trowelled on the plasterboard.
Hairline cracks - which can be linked to wet plaster - are improbable
Quicker drying out time
Possible to do using a DIY basis
Insulation is often fitted behind plasterboard